Stumptown at Ace Hotel

At a glance

Stumptown Coffee inside the Ace Hotel Kyoto, a 1926 former telephone exchange redesigned by Kengo Kuma. This was Stumptown's first location outside the United States. The coffee is reliable — single-origin pour-overs, well-pulled espresso — but the building is the reason to come. Kuma kept the original structure and layered in timber lattice, open courtyards, and natural light. Order at the counter, settle into the lobby sofas or the long communal table, and look up. The architecture rewards those who stay longer than their coffee.

Why it's overlooked

The Shinpuhkan complex where the Ace sits is on Karasuma-dori, one of Kyoto's main streets, but it draws almost no tourist foot traffic. Visitors heading to Nishiki Market pass within two blocks and never turn. The hotel lobby is open to the public and most people outside Kyoto's design community don't realise you can walk in, sit down, and spend an hour without being a guest. It is still very much in the hands of the neighbourhood.

The detail most visitors miss

The courtyard behind the lobby is where the building reveals itself. An open-air garden surrounded by the original 1920s structure, with Kuma's timber screens filtering the light. It is quieter than the café itself and most visitors never walk through. The Shinpuhkan complex also connects to a handful of small shops and a gallery space worth browsing. Give yourself thirty minutes beyond the coffee to wander the full building.

Nearby

• Torisei Sanjo Izakaya
• Ace Cafe Rooftop Rooftop Bar
• Kurasu Ebisugawa Cafe / Coffee
• Onikai Restaurant